This is a serious, polished expression of Juliénas, coming from plots on the steep slope around the Mont Bessay winery, with the kind of depth and structure that shows why cru Beaujolais is being re-evaluated as fine wine. It  still feels recognizably Gamay, with brightness and perfume, but at this level it is less “simple bistro red” and more a refined, age-worthy wine with red fruit, spice, minerality and real presence.