Although this wine is made from purchased grapes, it is given the same care and attention as the domaine parcels. The texture on the palate is dense and creamy—a classic Bâtard feel—yet it is enlivened in 2021 by the vintage’s acidity; the ripe peach and pear fruit aromas are liberally accented with butter, spice, and smoke. I recommend you give this a few years to open and drink it over the next decade.